2024-05-26 Marie Gallant and Dominica

Tracy on Wanderlust and us headed into town in Marie Gallant, thinking to wander around, but noticed at the bus stop that they were running busses to the main town on Marie Gallant of Grand Bourg.  Busses are always a great way to see a bit of the country for cheap.

We kind of figured out the schedule, enough that we were pretty sure we could get a return bus.  None of us has very good French.  The bus took an inland route south, so it was nice to see the interior of the island.

Busy dinghy dock at Marie Gallant

Downtown Marie Gallant - not very busy

The interior was a lot of sugar cane fields, pastureland, and cattle.   There really were no fenced pastures for the cows, they mostly appeared to be staked out in the pasture, and you could see the circles of lower grass from their grazing.

View from Bus or countryside 

One of the cows staked out.  Very large animals

Sugar cane field, harvested and not

We were happy to find the town of Grand Bourg had a festival market, so we were able to wander around with the crowds and look at the wares.

Lots of tents set up selling a bit of everything

Large stage set up for the evening music

Kris found a vendor selling homemade honey and nut bars - she bought a few

Wandering through the very colorful displays

Stopped to listen to some drummers

We left Marine Gallant on Tuesday and had a nice 26 mile brisk sail to Portsmouth, Dominica.  Winds varied from 5 knots to 26 knots, so we had all sail combinations at one point on  the trip.

Anchorage in Portsmouth, Dominica

We spent a bit of time in Dominica on our last trip, but Tracy had not done the Indian River tour when she was there, so we did it again with her.  There are no motorized vessels allowed on the river, so you hire a local guide who rows you up in their wooden boats, and explains the flora and fauna on the way.  The river was important, as it was used as a major trade route to move goods and crops from inland to the harbor.  It is the only river that is at sea level and can be navigated by boat.

Going up the Indian River

The Pirates of the Caribbean movie used Dominica for quite a bit of filming.  This "hut" on the river was used for a scene in the movie.  The hut was made for the movie, but Dominica has kept it around for tourist entertainment.

One of the many land crabs that live along the river bank.  I believe our guide said there were 5 varieties of crabs along the river.

At the end of the river, you can get out and go for a short wander among the trees on nice paths

Love the trunk and root systems on the Dragonsblood trees that line the river and surrounding area.  

Some nice pink oyster mushrooms growing on the decaying forest matter

Tracy left the next day, as she is on a different schedule than us, but we decided to stay longer.   Took a nice hike up to Fort Shirley in the Cabrits National Park.

Passed this now abandoned large hotel and spa that was under construction when we were here 11 years ago.   Security guard said it was damaged in Hurricane Maria, and the government is looking for investors to help repair and open it again.

Nice view of anchorage on the road leading to the Fort entrance

Cobblestone road/path leading up to Fort

They have restored quite a few building.  Heavy stone construction

Impressive on the inside as well.  

Was quite the large area with many buildings during the occupation.  Highest hill is 561' tall

Some the restored grounds in Fort Shirley

Sleeping rooms for the white skilled military men

We hiked up to the top of the hill, well maintained trail, but a bit rocky

Cannon at the top pointing west

Cannons lined up to protect the bay, Portsmouth can be seen in background

Friday was boat work day.  Kris sanded and put more varathane on the dining table, as it was getting worn.

When we sail in heavier seas, we sometimes get a squeaking noise on the port side.   Dean took down the ceiling panel in the port bath, and found where we had wood rubbing on fiberglass.   He cut away some of it, hopefully will stop the squeak.  We will leave the ceiling open during our next sail, and see what happens.

Dean cutting some of the squeaky areas.

Saturday we headed into town to the Saturday market.  

A trip to town is not complete without spotting some goats

Narrow main street along the water in Portsmouth, Dominica

The town is not the upscale tourist area, just normal folks 

Very nice garden at this house

More people and activity the closer to the market

The Saturday market for the locals, to buy home grown fruits and veggies.  Also some clothes, shoes and miscellaneous for sale.

Kris shopping inside the main part of the market

Lots of tents and vendors in the streets as well

We picked up some pineapple, bananas, spinach, kale, and peppers.  Total cost was $30 EC, or about $11 dollars US.

Sunday morning has been raining, so Dean is catching water, and scrubbing the boat.  We will most likely be here a couple more days, before heading south.  The winds look good for a Tuesday departure.