Sunday, April 12, 2026

2026-04-12 Hiking on Antigua, and a nice sail to Guadeloupe

We moved from Jolly Harbor anchorage to Falmouth Harbor.  We wanted to see some of the classic yachts that had been arriving for the upcoming races.  Had a very lumpy trip into 20 knot winds, but only for about 4 miles, so not bad to get from Jolly Harbor to Falmouth.   The rest of the day after moving was cleaning some salt water off the boat, and relaxing.  

Monday was Easter Monday, and lots of things were closed, so we decided it would be a good day for a hike up Monks Hill on the north side of Falmouth Harbor with Breathe.   Great Fort George on Monk’s Hill was Antigua and Barbuda’s largest colonial fortification.   We took the easy way up, with road for about half, then the trail to the top at 784 ft. Beautiful views of Falmouth Harbor.

Hot and sweaty and windy at the top 

Dean posing at the old archway.

Falmouth Harbor

While at the top another person hiked up.  We said our hellos and admired the view, and as we got ready to leave he decided to show us the alternate trail down, that he had taken up.   Best part of cruising sometimes is the people you meet, and this was a good example.   Iwandy hikes the hill regularly, doing trail maintenance as well, and carried his machete with him.  He took us to the alternate trail, and led the way, which we were glad for, as it was confusing.  Very nice guy, and enjoyable to talk with.   It was a good 4-mile hike.

Iwandy and Monica on the trail

The next day our legs needed a break, so we did a slower day, and visited a mushroom farm with Breathe.  Harbor mushrooms have been around for about 8 years, and Jamie took us through his process.   He has two shipping containers in his backyard he uses to grow mushrooms, and sells them to local restaurants.  He explained the entire process, and we bought some pink oyster and phoenix mushrooms from him.

Thanks to Jason for the photos.

Jamie showing us the mushrooms and explaining how they are grown

Walking through the humidity and temperature controlled container

After the tour we walked to a local restaurant for a nice lunch out, and then back to the boats.

Wednesday was time for another hike, so we walked over to English Harbor with Breathe via the Middle Ground trail.  This hike was 4 miles, but only 531' in height.   Nice views again, and the end of the trail was in English Harbor and Nelsons Dockyard - a UNESCO World Heritage Site.  Nelsons dockyard was OK, but we were able to see some of the classic sailing yachts that had arrived for the upcoming races, which was great.

Antigua is a dryer place, not as tropical as other Caribbean islands, and lots of cactus on the hike



Overlooking English harbor



Ruins of Fort Berkley at the entrance to English Harbor

Classic yacht in the marina at English Harbor

Thursday we took another hike with Breathe, and this time went so we could see the start of the races.  Antigua hosts several boat races during the year, and one of them is the Antigua Racing Cup, followed by the Antigua Classic Yacht Regatta.  This was a 5-mile hike, going to 1066 ft in height.  Lots of up and down, but had a great view for the start of the race.

A helicopter was flying around taking photos of the race boats as well.   Check out Jason and Monica's Facebook page of April 9th for some really cool photos.  

Racing


After watching the start of the race, we continued along the trail, which got very steep in places, and we were all hot and tired when we finally got to the top.

Along the trail

At the top is Shirley Heights, and there is a bar and part-time restaurant.  We all got cool drinks and sat down and rested for a bit, and had snacks we had brought.  It was a much-needed rest.

Made it to the top



Kitty at the restaurant hoping for a handout.

Outdoor seating at Shirley Heights restaurant.


After the rest, the trail was easy going back - mostly downhill



Dean, Jason and Monica, getting ready to head back down.  Falmouth harbor in the background, where the boats are.

Monica on the trail back down.


Both Kris and Dean suffered shoe failures, as the soles started coming off during the hike, but we made it back to the boat without complete failure, so all was good.   
Friday was the last day of east winds, before they turned more southerly, so after our hike, we went and checked out, and then Friday morning set sail for Guadeloupe.

Had a nice sail, with winds 12 to 20 knots, and not too bad of seas.   

Took a photo of Breathe as we sailed past them.  


We were disappointed that our first planned stop in Guadeloupe at Deshaies did not work out, the anchorage was pretty full, and only anchoring in over 50' of water was available, plus a pretty good swell was working its way into the anchorage, so we went on further to Malendure.

Saturday was a boat day for us, and a shoe repair day.

Deans shoes had not completely separated, he had to pry them apart, but the sewing holding the flip-flop straps was gone, so he had to resew that.

Kris's shoes just came unglued, so not as bad.  We got the shoes apart, cleaned, sewed and glued back up.  We will see how they work after the glue is fully cured.


Will continue a bit further south today to another anchorage.

Sunday, April 5, 2026

2026-04-05 St. Martin and on to Antigua

Sunday was a boat day to rest and recover from the overnight passage.   We did dinghy over to visit our friends Monica and Jason on Breathe.  Had not seen them since we were rafted to them in Vero Beach, Florida back in November, so about 4 months ago.  

Monday we went to town, had a nice breakfast out at Chez Fernand bakery, with Breathe, and our friends John and Melanie on Shally came over as well.   The food was delicious, as most French bakeries are.   After breakfast, we went to the paint store to get some bottom paint for the boat, but they did not have any in stock.  Bummed, as that was the main reason for us to go to St. Martin.  Oh well.  


Dean by the "I love St. Martin" sign

French bakeries are the best


Melanie, Kris, Dean, Monica, Jason and John  - fun to have time with friends.

We decide not stay long in St. Martin, as we still have easting to go, as it is 65 miles more easting before it is easy to sail north and south in the Leeward and Windward islands of the Caribbean.   Since there was a good weather window, and the next one was weeks away we decided to move on quickly.

Back to boat, upped anchor and Breathe and us headed out.   We stopped on the south side of St. Martin/Sint Maarten to get fuel, and had a better sailing angle than Breathe, but we both did fine on a very tight reach to Antigua.   Breathe even had a very close whale sighting.

Passing the south end of St. Martin, lots of folks out watching the planes come in.  St. Martin is famous for having the planes come in low, and the end of the airport is very close to the beach.

Plane coming in, with boat anchored out to watch

You can see the plane close to landing, over the beach, full of people.

On our overnight to Antigua around 2:00 a.m. we sailed into a patch of Sargassum.   Not unusual, and usually no issue, normally you just part the Sargassum as you go, and sail right out.   This time was different.  Sailed in, and the boat went from 8 knots to 1 knot of speed.  We had 20 knot winds, and we were moving at 1 knot.  It was also very quiet, no wind or wave noise at all, and the seas went from 3’ to flat.   Quite eerie, actually.  Took a bit, but we changed course and sailed out and speed picked right back up.

 Got into Antigua around 4:00 in the morning, and went to bed.  Around 11:00 a.m. we were recovered enough from the overnight trip to head in and check into Antigua.  That done, it was back to the boat for lunch and naps.    That evening we headed back in with Breathe for the Tuesday pizza special at La Porta – only $13 for a medium pizza.   We all got our own pizzas, so enough for dinner and lunch the next day.

I stole this picture from Breathe - thanks guys.

Wednesday we decided to hike up Pearns Hill with Breathe.  Dean and I have hiked it before, but first time for Breathe.  Unfortunately, the swell was rather large, and our beach landing did not go as planned, with Jason and Dean staying dry, but Monica got a bit wet, and Kris took a large swell over the side of the dink and got thoroughly drenched.   Oh well, clothes dry. 

We had a nice, but strenuous hike up the hill, with a couple of roads up being at least a 30 degree or more angle.  It only around 325 feet tall, but steep roads.

Made it to the top

Very pretty views from the top of Pearn hill



Back at the dinghy we knew putting in would be hard with the swell, but we did everything wrong.  Key not in the motor, stern facing the waves, steep beach.  Took a couple big waves over the stern and completely swamped the dink.  Dean and Jason got soaked, Monica partly and Kris not at all, as she was still on the beach.    The dinghy full of sand and water, we brought back on the beach, bailed it out, and then tried again.   Everyone but Kris got in, and made a successful exit, Kris walked down to a breakwater, waded out on the rocks and got picked up.   Exciting times.   We were lucky, outboard motor and battery just fine.   Spent some time back at the boat cleaning dink of excess sand, gave it a freshwater rinse and all is good.   Felt a bit foolish though, as could have done a much better job the first time – oh well, good memories.

Still smiling after the dinghy dunking.

Thursday we headed into town with Breathe.  Went to Budget marine, and the grocery store, and wandered around the new “container” market.    Big changes around the marina, as they are tearing down the old shop area, and have moved it all into remodeled shipping containers, and apparently will be building condos where the old shops used to be. 

New container shops - they are moving into them just as we were visiting, so not open yet

 

Nice large shady sitting area around the container shops



Lots of boats in the Jolly Harbor marina

Friday was boat day.  Dean made pizza dough, white bread, and his lemon breakfast bread.   Kris worked on repairing the dinghy chaps, which some sewing was coming undone on.  We also did a load of laundry, and general boat cleaning.

Saturday we went in with Breathe, and caught the ”bus” to St. John, the largest town on Antigua.  Every Saturday is market day, with people setting up tents and stalls to sell everything from candy, shoes, clothes, and fruits and veggies.    Had a good walk around town seeing the sites, and then Jason gets credit for finding a nice restaurant for lunch.  Good food at very reasonable prices.  Even got to watch a cat stalk and catch a lizard, but then the lizard got away and ran under our table – which was not nice – we all picked up our feet and backpacks quickly in case it decided to use them to climb up away from the cat.    The restaurant owners wife came out with a broom and dustpan and rounded up the stray lizard and took it to the grassy area away from the outside dining area.   Good food and entertainment.

Bus depot - the minivans are the buses

Lots of people and stalls set up selling goods


Statue of the first Prime Minister of Antigua and a national hero

Museum of Antigua - unfortunately closed during our visit

Cathedral of St. John the Divine. The present cathedral was built on a fossilized reef, in 1845, and is now in its third incarnation, as earthquakes in 1683 and in 1745 destroyed the previous structures.

Inside Cathedral of St. John the Divine 

Cute bus parked on a road in St John

Inside the large Public Market Complex.  More vendors outside than inside.

Saw lots of cats in and around while walking.  This mom and babies taking a nap inside the Market Complex.

Back to the boat around 2:00 in the afternoon.  Kris worked on putting in a new fan for our fridge, as the old one stopped working.   Did not have the right size fan, so she put in a larger one we will use temporarily until we get the right size later on.

Today we will move to a new anchorage on Antigua.

 

Sunday, March 29, 2026

2026-03-29 Good visit, and on to St. Martin

We had a good visit with Lindsey and her boyfriend Zach.  Spent 2 days in Watermelon Bay on the north side of St. John, and then motored to the south side and spent 2 days on a mooring in Salt Pond.

Good times hiking and snorkeling in both places.

Dean, Zach and Lindsey -setting out on our hike


Sugar mill ruins near Watermelon Bay


Charm in Watermelon Bay


Some of the prickles along the trail


The flowers were in bloom, and the bees extra busy gathering pollen


Jack Spaniard wasp nest - small and easy to accidentally brush against when hiking



We met some other hikers on the trail, and they suggested the best ruins were just a bit further on.  Guess we all misunderstood the directions they gave, but after going about a mile out of the way, we did backtrack and find the ruins.


Brown Bay Plantation Ruins


Taking a break 

Salt Pond Bay on the south side of St. John is known for having sea turtles, and it did not disappoint.  

Saw many turtles surfacing to breathe, and Kris saw 8 on the bottom during a quick snorkel in the bay.  We also had a large Jewfish under the boat for a while, but could never get a photo of it.

Spent a lot of time snorkeling around Salt Pond Bay, and Dean also cleaned the props, and changed the zincs.

School of Blue Tangs

Queen Triggerfish


Schoolmasters



Stingray with remora

Green turtle surfacing with remora in pursuit

Turtle feeding

We went for a walk - all uphill to have some ice cream.  Found a couple of blue pool noodles in the road that must have blown out of someone's vehicle.   Carried them to ice cream and back to the beach, where we found a couple of kids we could give them to.

Ice cream - yummy treat

Dean carrying the pool noodles we found on the road.

On the nice trail back to the bay 



Of course, we had plenty of time to just relax as well, and also played games in the evening.



Mexican train dominos night

We left Salt Pond early Wednesday morning and headed back to St. Thomas to drop Lindsey and Zach at the airport.   Sorry to see them go, as they were easy company - relaxed, didn't overuse water, even helped do dishes - they are welcome to come back anytime.   

After dropping them off we headed into town, got groceries, had lunch and then back to the boat where we upped anchor and headed back to St. John to Francis Bay - whew - busy day.

Tried a new place in St. Thomas - The Tap and Still.   Very good veggie burger and fries.

Friday we went for a walk to the Annaberg Sugar Plantation Ruins near Francis Bay.  At one point there were up to 591 slaves at the plantation.  Amazing how they terraced the steep hills to grow sugar cane.  About 1 gallon of sugar cane juice made 1 lb of sugar.

Nice walk up to the plantation ruins

Info board

Old windmill ruins

Saturday morning we upped anchor and motored through the British Virgin Islands east to get in a position to sail to St. Martin.   Per the weather forecast we should be able to motor east for 15 miles or so past the BVI's in light winds, then turn to St. Martin on a tight reach.  That did not work out.   We did sail some, but the winds were lighter than forecast, and more east than forecast, so ended up sailing for only a couple of hours, then the motor came back on, and it was mostly a motor trip. Oh well, at least half the trip was also fairly calm seas.   Got in at 3:30 a.m.  - dropped the hook and went to bed.