We hung out in St. John's Francis bay Sunday and Monday and part of Tuesday. Kris's back felt better, so she went for a nice long walk, first one in a few days.
Nice trail through trees
Top of the trail overlooking pond and anchorage. Charm is in the center of the photo
Ruins of old Annaberg Country school
On Monday we had an unexpected visitor for most the day, that kept us amused for a while.
Brown pelican using our bow as a perch to spot fish
It was fun to watch him dive for small fish around the boat. He/she had a pretty good kill ratio. Fish frequently use cruising boats as protected areas to gather around, and this guy got smart and took advantage of that.
Unfortunately the visitor did not observe our strict no pooping on the deck policy, so Dean had to go up in the evening and wash the offense away.
The weather looked good, so Tuesday afternoon we hoisted anchor and set sail. Had a great sail east to St. Martin, and were joined by 5 other boats with the same idea.
On AIS we are the green boat on the track line.
Had a good sail with mostly north winds. Averaged around 6.5 knots for the entire 90 mile trip. Quite happy, as we were the smallest of all the boats sailing, yet none passed us over the twelve hour sail. North of us were two 53 mono hulls, south was one 45 catamaran and one 45 mono hull.
We got in at 5:30 in the morning and since there was full moon we felt safe to anchor in the north bay. Got a couple hours sleep and up to make the bridge opening at 8:30 into the inner lagoon. The bridge is a bascule bridge but only has a 32.8 foot width opening, which feels smaller when you are going through it. We are 21' wide, so have almost 6' on each side, but sure looks tight.
Another catamaran went under the bridge ahead of us
Looks smaller the closer we got to it.
Bridge in down position
We made it just fine, Dean did an excellent job driving through, no scraps. There is another bridge on the Dutch side of the island, but they charge a fee, and then to get to the French side of the island we would have to go under another bridge. We want the French side because check in is easier, and cheaper. Only $2 to check into the French side, and we do it mostly all ourselves on a self serve computer at the marine store.
Check in successful, we went and had a nice lunch out. We were walking by on the street, and the owner was out cleaning tables, and wanted to show us his food. We declined, and wandered further into town, but a cruise ship must have been in, because the "touristy" part of town was quite busy. So we headed back, and decided to try his place. He took us on a full tour of his restaurant kitchen, showing us the different food he had. After the tour, he took our order, and Kris went to use the sink to wash up before eating - and the sink is the same one the staff uses for dishes and why not. - Not in America any more. The food was good, the service great, and the experience even better.
Kris's plate of Potatoes and chopped cod, with an side of Zucchini with something? Dean had the lasagna.
Next couple of days we basically turned into slugs, and just hung out on the boat, reading, relaxing, and watching the activity around us. The anchorage is quite large, with plenty of room for the boats, without feeling tight, but there are a lot of boats.
Anchorage looking north - French side
Anchorage looking south - Dutch side
There are also two other Manta's anchored in the lagoon. Wanderlust - who we had met before, and Salty Fish - who we had not.
Saturday we walked up to the Carrefour grocery store - Kris had brain overload with all the fresh fruits and vegetables.
The store was busy, probably because it was Saturday before Easter
The even had a section with fresh sprouts, microgreens, and herbs still growing in containers you could buy.
Prices were a bit more than the states on some things, like grapes, berries and candy, but about the same on others. We will most likely be here for the next week, just chillaxin, and maybe a couple of boat projects.
It is always iffy looking at a long term weather forecast. We use several websites to check weather - Wunderground, Predict Wind, and Windy. What we have learned is that generally you can rely on the next three days - but after that - it can and will change. So sitting looking at the weather last week, we saw a potential for west or northwest winds coming up - which would be great to head to St. Martin.
So decision time - where to go for the next 7 days while waiting to see if the forecast would pan out. We had thought we would go to the British Virgin Islands (BVI's), but then realized that we would have to check in and check out which could run about $100 to $200 - and might only be there one week. So decided to head back to St. Thomas instead for groceries, and then back to St. John for the week. Didn't have to leave right away, so decided to go check out snorkel spot on Monday, across the bay that Kris had seen a video on that looked good. Monday we headed out across the bay. Rough dinghy trip - usually Kris stands up when it gets rough as she gets bounced pretty good on the bow of the dinghy, but she didn't this time.
We did not find the good snorkeling, so back to boat, for a relaxing afternoon. Tuesday morning Kris could barely get out of bed - back pain. Must have bruised something on the rough dinghy ride. We upped anchor and headed for Charlotte Amalie in St. Thomas to get groceries. Also Kris's ears have been bothering her - most likely a stubborn case of swimmers ear, so she thought we could stop at the walk in doctor and get some antibiotic ear drops and clear that up. Kris moved slow and stiff, but we had a nice sail to St. Thomas which was great, as we have been motoring more than we like.
Three big cruise ships at the dock in Charlotte Amalie, St. Thomas
The first walk in doctor wanted $275 just to see her. Next walk in doctor wanted $150. Kris decided to home treat the ears until we get to St. Martin - maybe we can get the swimmers ear gone before we get there.
We got groceries, lunch and then back to boat, and headed out to Christmas Cove off of Great St. James Island on the SE corner of St. Thomas. Kris has never sat so straight before in the helm seat, minimizing back movement.
Keeping the back straight, no twisting or it hurt.
We grabbed a mooring ball at Christmas Cove. Kris has spent the week staying out of the water, treating her ears with a mixture of vinegar and isopropyl alcohol and doing nothing in order to rest her back and heal up.
Dean went for a snorkel, had to check out the fish under the boat. Not great snorkeling. Christmas cove has been good for boat watching - lots of boats come in for lunch at a local boat here that makes pizza and drinks. Lots of charter boats - always good fun to watch them.
Some coral and fish - but no great snorkeling
Lots of large Tarpon hanging out under the boat
Charm on the mooring ball - Kris keeping her ears dry
Busy mooring and anchoring at Christmas Cove
The weather still looks great for heading to St. Martin on Tuesday or Wednesday so we will move today to the north side of St. John for a couple of days and wait for the west and north winds. Kris's back is much better now, and ears doing better as well.
Reports were the pier in Frederiksted are the best snorkeling/diving around so had to go and check it out. There are three dive stores in town and it seemed like people were snorkeling/diving the pier all the time. We went for a really nice snorkel best variety of corals we have seen. The pilings that support the long cruise ship pier are covered with corals. We also saw a very large green turtle, some smaller ones, and even one settling in for a nap. Spotted Eagle ray - no good photo, and an octopus. Worth the sail down just to snorkel the pier.
octopus in front of the black fish
The Manta Namid was also at the anchorage so talked to Bruce and Sandra. We hung out in Frederiksted a couple more days, just relaxing, and then decided to sail back up to St. John, as it looked like good weather for the sail. We are watching the weather now for our next jump to the east - against the prevailing trade winds to St. Martin. We can either leave from the BVI's and sail east southeast the 80 miles to St. Martin, or leave from St. Croix and sail east northeast the 95 miles. Looking at the pilot charts, typically there are more winds from the NE than the SE, so going to the BVI and planning on sailing from their made more sense. Of course - now the forecast looks like nice SE wind, so probably the wrong decision, but we are not in a hurry - so will just wait for the good weather.
We are anchored near Pelican rock on the SE side of St. John. It is quiet here, with few boats. Went for a snorkel around the rocks, but not much there. Two sea turtles were grazing close to our boat on the sea grass, so waited for them to surface to get some photos, as they have remora attached.
Guess turtles must have bad eyesight, or not look around much, because as Kris hung out just floating, one surfaced fairly close to her, and then kept moving closer on the surface, until it was just a couple feet away, then it dove, and still didn't react, until it bumped into her then it was surprised and quickly dove.
Green turtle with remora attached
The turtle was only about a foot away when he started to dive
We also had a remora attached to the keel of the boat, hopefully it does a good job of cleaning the boat. It swam away a bit when Kris tried to get close for a photo, but then stuck back onto the keel.
We will hang out here, until we decide to leave, or need groceries, and then will move somewhere - don't know yet. Its all about the weather now.
We took a day off from Snorkeling, and moved to Coral harbor on St. John. Not a place we would pick to hang out at, lots of derelict boat with full time people. Went ashore and picked up lunch at Johnny Lime, but brought back to boat to eat, as no great place to leave dink on that side of the bay.
Derek and Kris waiting for food at Johnny Lime
Next day, we left, hoping to stop at Salt Pond on the south side of St. John, but no luck, moorings all full, and there was swell moving into the anchorage, so we headed around to the north side. That is the nice thing about the Virgin Islands, there are so many options close together.
Spent a night at Francis Bay, on the north side. Went for a snorkel, and Kris got to watch an octopus move from sand to rock and virtually become invisible, as it camouflaged itself on the rock. Dean and Derek able to spot it, but you would have never seen it just snorkeling over it unless you knew it was there.
Do you see the octopus?
Had a nice beach walk in the afternoon.
Nice beach at Francis Cay
Next day moved to west to mooring field near Henley Cay, which we heard should be great snorkeling.
It was good snorkeling, with the most fish variety we had seen, and some quite large for reef fish. Lots of coral variety as well.
Watched a ray being harassed by a fish.
It was then time to head back to St. Thomas, as Derek needed to fly back to Idaho. After a quick shopping trip in the main harbor to pick up a gift for a friend, we headed over to Lindbergh Bay, by the airport. Next morning early, we took the dink to the beach, and dropped off Derek and Kris. Took water and towel with, so Derek could wash off and dry his feet for land travel, after getting out of the dink and walking up the sandy area to the road. Kris walked the short walk with him to airport, but no place to leave the dink, so Dean went back to boat and waited until Kris came back to pick her up. Sad to see Derek go, had a great visit with him.
We hoisted anchor and headed back to the main anchorage.
Saw this large ship loading a large powerboat for shipment. Compare powerboat size to large sailboat on the carrier as well.
We got the Safari bus up to the Cost U Less store which had Tillamook Sharp Cheddar Cheese in 2.5 lb blocks in stock. Derek had full luggage, so did not bring cheese, so we picked up other provisions, and 6 blocks of cheese.
Next morning we headed south, and had a nice sail to St. Croix, with 12 to 18 knots of wind, sailing at 60 apparent. Little choppy and bouncy, but not bad at all. Averaged around 6.7 knots, and anchored at Fredrickstead. About 18 other boats here.
Went for a nice walk about town early Saturday morning, Not much open or going on, but Kris did get some booties to wear with her flippers, as her flippers are a bit loose, and with all the snorkeling she got a small sore on her toe from the flippers rubbing. There were 3 dive stores open, as the snorkeling and diving by the pier is supposed to be quite good.
Looking out at the anchorage. Charm is the far right boat
We stayed in St. Thomas, as Derek was flying in on Tuesday. Went to town for groceries, and took the safari bus to Budget Marine to get a courtesy flag for the BVI's as Kris decided it was a bit complicated to make, and only $14 at Budget.
For those that don't know - the Safari bus is a pickup with a modified back to haul people. It costs $1 or $2 depending on how far you go. Routes are not published, and there are no schedules, but if you wait long enough - usually not more than 10 to 15 minutes, one will come by if you are on the major roads.
A Safari Bus
Tuesday Derek's flight was delayed so he got in late. Kris took the Safari bus into to meet him at the airport, and about the time the luggage was gathered, the rain started. Dean stayed on the boat, as we were not sure if Derek wanted to come back to the boat first, or get something to eat first - so not sure the best place to take the dink. The rain made the decision easy. Kris and Derek took the taxi to Wendy's near a dinghy dock, and Dean waited on the boat for the rain to stop. It was really coming down, causing localized flooding.
View out of the taxi coming to boat from airport
By the time Kris and Derek were halfway done with dinner, the rain slacked enough that Dean could come in, and joined them for dinner. The dinghy trip back to the boat was only a little wet - but our water tanks were full.
Saw a nice fireworks show in the evening. No idea why there were fireworks.
Next day we stayed in St. Thomas, walked up to get Derek approved snacks and the store, some more fresh veggies and fruit, and then lunch. A couple of large cruise ships came in to the dock so town was quite busy by lunch time.
A couple of large cruise ships at dock in St. Thomas
In the afternoon we decided to head over to St. John, as the anchorage in St. Thomas was a bit rolly. It was only about a 10 mile trip to Rendezvous Bay, and the anchorage was much calmer, making for a peaceful night.
Dean made cinnamon rolls and bread in the morning. Yummy.
In the afternoon we went for a nice snorkel.
Saw a nurse shark, a ray, and lots of fish. Some nice healthy Elkhorn coral which was good to see.
Nice ray swimming by
Three fishes playing in the Elkhorn coral
No, not on the beach - underwater - look at the fish
Derek diving down
Next day we moved to Great Lameshur Bay and got a mooring. Had a nice snorkel in the afternoon, and got to watch some squid and fish doing their thing.
Relaxing evening, and then next day stayed at Great Lameshur, and went for short walk ashore. Explored some ruins and stretched our legs. The Manta Namid with Bruce and Sandra on it were anchored in the bay. We had met them in the Bahamas and had a good revisit, they are the second boat from the left.
From the left, Sandra, Derek, Kris, Dean, Bruce
Ruins overlooking Little Lameshur bay
Green and tropical looking
Nice and shady with some large trees on the trail
In the afternoon, went for another snorkel in a different spot.
A Hawksbill turtle was not too afraid of us, and got to watch it for a while.
Lots of nice fans, soft corals, sponges and some nice hard coral as well. Plus lots of nice fish. One very large scary barracuda. Overall a nice snorkel.
Don't have any firm plans except for getting Derek back to airport on the 8th.
