Sunday, April 26, 2026

2026-04-26 More exploring in Les Saintes, and on to Dominica

Sunday we took our dink around the point to go snorkel a bay that was supposed to have lots of large turtles.   It took some swimming, but we did find them.  Unfortunately my camera settings were off, so no great photos.


After the snorkel, we moved, as the spot we were at was getting a bit rolly, so we went back to Ilet a Cabrits, where the water was calm.

Monday we decided to go for a morning walk around the island again to stretch our legs, with Jason and Monica.  They came over to pick us up, and their outboard engine died and would not restart while picking us up.   So Dean and Jason worked on the outboard while Monica and I had a nice walk. 

They ended up rebuilding the carburetor, and all seemed good after that.

Trees send long roots down from their branches. I believe they are Banyan trees

Fun exploring the old ruins

Tuesday we left Les Saintes and had a very nice sail down to Dominica.   We had a bit of an excitement, as what we are pretty sure was a sperm whale surfaced not more than 50' from our boat. Glad we did not collide. 

We walked to town after lunch and did our check in at Dominica, and arranged a tour for the following day.

Wednesday we started our tour with our guide Ken, stopping first at Paradise Valley Gardens.  Lush tropical gardens, used for events and growing plants for landscaping.  Truly a beautiful area.  Lots of Peacocks, and three donkeys and a few goats and chickens roam the property as well.

Small bar and relax area 

Beautiful grounds







Area where they grow plants to sell for landscaping


Our guide Top showing us one of the tortoises on the grounds.  I believe it is a red footed tortoise


Millie, the donkey

Next was a hike to Chaudière Pool.   Nice hike through the lush landscape, to a small waterfall and pool. We did not jump off the rocks into the large pool, but did enjoy soaking in the fresh water smaller pool.

Enjoying the pool

Hiking down to the pool

Other folks enjoying the small waterfall and pool

Lots of very small freshwater snails

Hiking back out

After our hike, it was off to lunch, which was very yummy.

Kris's meal, shrimp, lentils, rice, mac and cheese, salad and coke - for about $25.00 USD.

Next was Red Rocks.  This is an area of - you guessed - red compacted soil and sand which is red from the oxidization of the volcanic basalt which was rich in iron, causing the red color.







After Red Rocks, a quick stop at the chocolate factory to buy some goodies, and then a very scenic drive back.


Kris got her 90% dark chocolate bar





Looking towards the bay in Portsmouth

Thursday we decided we needed some exercise after sitting for most of Wednesday, so off we went to hike the East and West Cabrits, two hills ls near Portsmouth Dominica, where we are anchored.   Fort Shirley is on the East Cabrits, and is a partially restored fort.  It was a long hot hike.

Inside the Fort Shirley officers quarters looking out the window to Portsmouth

Dean ready to man the cannons

Ruins of Commandants quarters

Charm is anchored down there in Portsmouth Bay

They are building a new marina in the area - should be done in 1 to 10 years

Mahogany tree seed


View from West Cabrits looking toward Guadeloupe

Taking a break on the top of West Cabrits


Friday we snorkeled an old pier in the area - finding lots of small critters, coral, sponges and such, and enjoyed a restful afternoon.


Lots of Sergeant Majors around the piers




Saturday we decided to take a hike that Kris had found while searching trails in the area.   Kris was not having luck with Wikiloc, for offline trails, and we ended up going past our turn, but eventually backtracked and found the trail, which was quite beautiful, and lead in a canyon to a tight area with a waterfall.  On the way there passed a strange home with lots of statues in the yard.

The statues look homemade

Not sure about what the design is supposed to be

Lots of work put in to what is now looking abandoned.

Start of the trail to Fau Valley Canyon has us walking in a field with a couple of cows

Trail to Fau Valley Canyon

Trail goes along some very steep walls

End of the trail for us - waterfall coming down the rocks - hard to see due to sun angle

Bridge over the river

Lots of sprouted coconuts along the trail

After the hike, we went to town and stopped at the Saturday market to get some fresh veggies.


Lots of stalls set up selling local fruit and vegetables

Don't know how much longer we will stay here - depends on weather, and sea state, as an irritating roll has developed in the anchorage.



Sunday, April 19, 2026

2026-04-19 Bouillante and Les Saintes in Guadeloupe

We went ashore in Malendure, Guadeloupe to get groceries in the morning, but of course on any French island it is hard to pass up a boulangerie without getting something yummy to eat.

The "dingy dock" in Malendure is just large rocks you climb on- avoiding crabs and lizards

Yummy treats from the boulangerie

We got our groceries and motored the short 2 miles further south with Jason and Monica on our buddy boat Breathe to Bouillante.   Bouillante means boiling in French, and the town is named such due to the hot water flowing down the rivers.  Bouillante is home to a geothermal plant, and the excess hot water is sent out to the ocean.  The beach right by the discharge of hot water is popular spot to hang out.   We found the water very warm, almost too hot in spots, but mostly the sulfur smell from the natural volcanic based hot water was a bit offputting.  We did snorkel off Point de L. Ermitage, which was just a so-so snorkel.

Ilet Nicolas off of Point de l'Ermitage


Only one nice Elkhorn coral, the rest were dead



Monica enjoying the snorkel.

Monday we set out with Breathe to Les Saintes.  Thought it was going to be a bit smoother of a trip, but was actually quite lumpy and unpleasant for most of it.   We arrived in the afternoon in Les Saintes and took a mooring at Ilet a Cabrit (Goat Island)

Tuesday we went ashore and took a nice hike on the trails around the island. This small island has been a fort, a lookout, a small resort, and now just ruins.

Like how this tree is affixed to the wall of the ruins

Ruins of old cistern.  Roof was water catchment, and inside is still holding water

Nice view from the top looking SE toward Terre-de-Haut

Monica found a couple goat skulls on a wall in old building

Charm on the mooring

Jason and Dean taking a break at the top of the hill.


After our hike and lunch, we went for a snorkel on the NW corner of the island. It was a good snorkel with quite a few healthy corals, and interesting structures, but not a lot of fish. We did get to see a couple of octopus thanks to Jason and Monica sharp eyes.




Octopus



Wednesday morning we moved over to a mooring off of Terre-de-Haut, and went into town for a walk around, and picked up some fresh veggies at the store.  The Les Saintes are very much a tourist attraction and the main town of Terre-de-Haut is set up for tourists with many restaurants, gift shops and such.

Monica and Kris strolling the main street

Lots of scooters and golf carts in the streets

Thursday we did our big hike of a little over 5 miles, from the town dinghy dock up to the top of Chameau Hill at 1,299 feet in elevation.  We took the trail up, which is steep but scenic, and then took the road down.
Goats relaxing at the start of the trailhead

Jason, Monica and Dean on the trail

The trail got quite steep with some large boulders to navigate 

Nice view from the top of the hill

Kris taking a rest in the shade of the ruins - it was at least 10 degrees cooler inside

Ruins at the top of the hill.


After the hike we were all hungry, so stopped for a nice lunch in town before heading back to the boats.
The weary hikers enjoying a break, waiting for lunch

Of course, what could be better than an ice cream after lunch

Raspberry ice cream - yummy

Friday morning we went for a short hike up to Fort Napoleon.  Originally Fort Louis, and destroyed by the British in built in 1779.  Renamed in 1805,and destroyed by the British in 1809.  Rebuilt again in 1816 to 1840, and in 1842 improved more, and completed in 1867.  Never used as a fort, but was a penitentiary for a time.   Neat to walk around with pretty gardens.

Entrance to Fort 


Nice views from the top

Fort and some of the garden area

Pretty flowers on the walk


Back to boats, and then we moved moorings again over to another spot in Les Saintes - Pain de Surcre.  Went for a snorkel and had a nice snorkel, lots more fish and another octopus.










Saturday was a bit cloudy so we just stayed on board, did laundry and relaxed.   We did rescue a kayak that had gotten loose from someone, and the owner did come looking and retrieved it, so we did our good deed for the day.

Today perhaps more snorkeling - we will see what the weather holds.