Sunday, April 19, 2026

2026-04-19 Bouillante and Les Saintes in Guadeloupe

We went ashore in Malendure, Guadeloupe to get groceries in the morning, but of course on any French island it is hard to pass up a boulangerie without getting something yummy to eat.

The "dingy dock" in Malendure is just large rocks you climb on- avoiding crabs and lizards

Yummy treats from the boulangerie

We got our groceries and motored the short 2 miles further south with Jason and Monica on our buddy boat Breathe to Bouillante.   Bouillante means boiling in French, and the town is named such due to the hot water flowing down the rivers.  Bouillante is home to a geothermal plant, and the excess hot water is sent out to the ocean.  The beach right by the discharge of hot water is popular spot to hang out.   We found the water very warm, almost too hot in spots, but mostly the sulfur smell from the natural volcanic based hot water was a bit offputting.  We did snorkel off Point de L. Ermitage, which was just a so-so snorkel.

Ilet Nicolas off of Point de l'Ermitage


Only one nice Elkhorn coral, the rest were dead



Monica enjoying the snorkel.

Monday we set out with Breathe to Les Saintes.  Thought it was going to be a bit smoother of a trip, but was actually quite lumpy and unpleasant for most of it.   We arrived in the afternoon in Les Saintes and took a mooring at Ilet a Cabrit (Goat Island)

Tuesday we went ashore and took a nice hike on the trails around the island. This small island has been a fort, a lookout, a small resort, and now just ruins.

Like how this tree is affixed to the wall of the ruins

Ruins of old cistern.  Roof was water catchment, and inside is still holding water

Nice view from the top looking SE toward Terre-de-Haut

Monica found a couple goat skulls on a wall in old building

Charm on the mooring

Jason and Dean taking a break at the top of the hill.


After our hike and lunch, we went for a snorkel on the NW corner of the island. It was a good snorkel with quite a few healthy corals, and interesting structures, but not a lot of fish. We did get to see a couple of octopus thanks to Jason and Monica sharp eyes.




Octopus



Wednesday morning we moved over to a mooring off of Terre-de-Haut, and went into town for a walk around, and picked up some fresh veggies at the store.  The Les Saintes are very much a tourist attraction and the main town of Terre-de-Haut is set up for tourists with many restaurants, gift shops and such.

Monica and Kris strolling the main street

Lots of scooters and golf carts in the streets

Thursday we did our big hike of a little over 5 miles, from the town dinghy dock up to the top of Chameau Hill at 1,299 feet in elevation.  We took the trail up, which is steep but scenic, and then took the road down.
Goats relaxing at the start of the trailhead

Jason, Monica and Dean on the trail

The trail got quite steep with some large boulders to navigate 

Nice view from the top of the hill

Kris taking a rest in the shade of the ruins - it was at least 10 degrees cooler inside

Ruins at the top of the hill.


After the hike we were all hungry, so stopped for a nice lunch in town before heading back to the boats.
The weary hikers enjoying a break, waiting for lunch

Of course, what could be better than an ice cream after lunch

Raspberry ice cream - yummy

Friday morning we went for a short hike up to Fort Napoleon.  Originally Fort Louis, and destroyed by the British in built in 1779.  Renamed in 1805,and destroyed by the British in 1809.  Rebuilt again in 1816 to 1840, and in 1842 improved more, and completed in 1867.  Never used as a fort, but was a penitentiary for a time.   Neat to walk around with pretty gardens.

Entrance to Fort 


Nice views from the top

Fort and some of the garden area

Pretty flowers on the walk


Back to boats, and then we moved moorings again over to another spot in Les Saintes - Pain de Surcre.  Went for a snorkel and had a nice snorkel, lots more fish and another octopus.










Saturday was a bit cloudy so we just stayed on board, did laundry and relaxed.   We did rescue a kayak that had gotten loose from someone, and the owner did come looking and retrieved it, so we did our good deed for the day.

Today perhaps more snorkeling - we will see what the weather holds.

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