2026-04-12 Hiking on Antigua, and a nice sail to Guadeloupe

We moved from Jolly Harbor anchorage to Falmouth Harbor.  We wanted to see some of the classic yachts that had been arriving for the upcoming races.  Had a very lumpy trip into 20 knot winds, but only for about 4 miles, so not bad to get from Jolly Harbor to Falmouth.   The rest of the day after moving was cleaning some salt water off the boat, and relaxing.  

Monday was Easter Monday, and lots of things were closed, so we decided it would be a good day for a hike up Monks Hill on the north side of Falmouth Harbor with Breathe.   Great Fort George on Monk’s Hill was Antigua and Barbuda’s largest colonial fortification.   We took the easy way up, with road for about half, then the trail to the top at 784 ft. Beautiful views of Falmouth Harbor.

Hot and sweaty and windy at the top 

Dean posing at the old archway.

Falmouth Harbor

While at the top another person hiked up.  We said our hellos and admired the view, and as we got ready to leave he decided to show us the alternate trail down, that he had taken up.   Best part of cruising sometimes is the people you meet, and this was a good example.   Iwandy hikes the hill regularly, doing trail maintenance as well, and carried his machete with him.  He took us to the alternate trail, and led the way, which we were glad for, as it was confusing.  Very nice guy, and enjoyable to talk with.   It was a good 4-mile hike.

Iwandy and Monica on the trail

The next day our legs needed a break, so we did a slower day, and visited a mushroom farm with Breathe.  Harbor mushrooms have been around for about 8 years, and Jamie took us through his process.   He has two shipping containers in his backyard he uses to grow mushrooms, and sells them to local restaurants.  He explained the entire process, and we bought some pink oyster and phoenix mushrooms from him.

Thanks to Jason for the photos.

Jamie showing us the mushrooms and explaining how they are grown

Walking through the humidity and temperature controlled container

After the tour we walked to a local restaurant for a nice lunch out, and then back to the boats.

Wednesday was time for another hike, so we walked over to English Harbor with Breathe via the Middle Ground trail.  This hike was 4 miles, but only 531' in height.   Nice views again, and the end of the trail was in English Harbor and Nelsons Dockyard - a UNESCO World Heritage Site.  Nelsons dockyard was OK, but we were able to see some of the classic sailing yachts that had arrived for the upcoming races, which was great.

Antigua is a dryer place, not as tropical as other Caribbean islands, and lots of cactus on the hike

Overlooking English harbor

Ruins of Fort Berkley at the entrance to English Harbor

Classic yacht in the marina at English Harbor

Thursday we took another hike with Breathe, and this time went so we could see the start of the races.  Antigua hosts several boat races during the year, and one of them is the Antigua Racing Cup, followed by the Antigua Classic Yacht Regatta.  This was a 5-mile hike, going to 1066 ft in height.  Lots of up and down, but had a great view for the start of the race.

A helicopter was flying around taking photos of the race boats as well.   Check out Jason and Monica's Facebook page of April 9th for some really cool photos.  

Racing

After watching the start of the race, we continued along the trail, which got very steep in places, and we were all hot and tired when we finally got to the top.

Along the trail

At the top is Shirley Heights, and there is a bar and part-time restaurant.  We all got cool drinks and sat down and rested for a bit, and had snacks we had brought.  It was a much-needed rest.

Made it to the top

Kitty at the restaurant hoping for a handout.

Outdoor seating at Shirley Heights restaurant.

After the rest, the trail was easy going back - mostly downhill

Dean, Jason and Monica, getting ready to head back down.  Falmouth harbor in the background, where the boats are.

Monica on the trail back down.

Both Kris and Dean suffered shoe failures, as the soles started coming off during the hike, but we made it back to the boat without complete failure, so all was good.   

Friday was the last day of east winds, before they turned more southerly, so after our hike, we went and checked out, and then Friday morning set sail for Guadeloupe.

Had a nice sail, with winds 12 to 20 knots, and not too bad of seas.   

Took a photo of Breathe as we sailed past them.  

We were disappointed that our first planned stop in Guadeloupe at Deshaies did not work out, the anchorage was pretty full, and only anchoring in over 50' of water was available, plus a pretty good swell was working its way into the anchorage, so we went on further to Malendure.

Saturday was a boat day for us, and a shoe repair day.

Deans shoes had not completely separated, he had to pry them apart, but the sewing holding the flip-flop straps was gone, so he had to resew that.

Kris's shoes just came unglued, so not as bad.  We got the shoes apart, cleaned, sewed and glued back up.  We will see how they work after the glue is fully cured.

Will continue a bit further south today to another anchorage.