Sunday, January 7, 2024

2024-01-07 Puerto Real, La Parguera and the Bioluminescent Bay

We spent New Years day aboard the boat, relaxing and recovering.  Did some clean up from the trip and took naps.  Lots of people fish while they are sailing, we are so good the fish just leap onto out boat.  Not a very big meal

Saw lots of flying fish on the journey.


On the 2nd we decided that it was time to step on land again.   We went for a walk, and had lunch out.  Kris has been practicing her Spanish, so she was happy to use a bit of it.

First for us - tourist board in town with information on the sights and restaurants.
History of Puerto Real
Nice little town square


We think kitty lived at town square, as there was a water bowl for him/her there

Puerto Real is a small town, with a few restaurants, but the main focus here seems to be fishing.  Not big commercial fishing, but many small boats that go out each day.  There are two fish markets in town.  It still is a sleepy little fishing village.

Outside of one of the fish markets

After a walk about town, it was time for lunch.  Took the recommendation of the marina staff for the restaurant to try.

Inside Restaurant Bodega 308, where we ate in Puerto Real

In the restaurant, which was obviously a family business, we were the only customer for quite a while.  Some folks stopped in to get take out.  A newborn baby was in a carrier on the floor near the bar, and everyone who came in stopped to googoo over the baby.  Then they brought in a cake and sang happy birthday for one of the 8 family members there.    All is Spanish of course.

Steak sliders and fries.  Yummy

Next day Kris changed the oil on both engines, and then we headed into town, and with the help of the Marina, got a taxi and went into Cabo Rojo for groceries.    Through some help of other taxi passengers we arranged for the driver to pick us up again in 40 minutes for the return trip.

The grocery store was large, and carried a good variety - with close to prices found in the United States.  The fresh fruit and veggie section was a little smaller than large US stores, but had good selection.  The only thing we did not find was brussel sprouts and mushrooms.   The rest of the store was comparable to a US grocery store.

Upon checkout the clerk, who was a young girl who spoke excellent english asked if we found everything.  We said yes, except for the brussel sprouts and mushrooms.   10 minutes later, and 3 employees involved, but they did have both - don't know why we did not find them, but happy to have.  We apologized to the people in line behind us, but no one really seemed disturbed by the delay.

Fruit and veg area of grocery store.


The marina here in Puerto Real is real nice, and the folks are very friendly and helpful.   We were able to get rid of our trash, and they even have a used oil disposal bin in town which was great, since we had used oil.  Filled up with diesel, only took 65 gallons, we had filled up at Spanish Wells in the Bahamas but with the amount of motoring thought we might need more.  It was only $4.75 per gallon, gas was $4.76.

We heard from our friends on What If, that the 9 Barrios restaurant in town had decent pizza, so next day after a morning of miscellaneous boat chores, we headed in for a late lunch.


Outside on the deck at 9 Barrios

The restaurant was not busy at all, I think us and one other customer.  At the end of the meal we spent a good 15 minutes talking to our server about life in Puerto Rico.  She had gone to university  - which was much cheaper than in the United States, costing around $3000 per semester.  Had a degree in Biology, but still unable to find work in her field in Puerto Rico.    Most young folks will go to university in Puerto Rico, then head to the States for employment

Friday we left Puerto Real, and motored the 22 miles to La Parguera.  On the south coast of Puerto Rico, we most likely won't do much sailing, as the trade winds blow out of the east the majority of the time, and that is the direction we want to go.  So we get up early, and motor to the next anchorage, before the winds build.

Rounding the SE cape of Puerto Rico - Cabo Rojo

La Paguera is a locals tourist spot. As it wa a friday before the holiday "Three kings day"  there were a lot of people there on vacation.   Lots of small boats head out to the smaller islands in the bay, where they spend the day relaxing on the small beaches, or more likely hanging out in the water on floats, near the beach and boats.   

Collection of boats at one of the small cays offshore.

Water not as clear as in the Bahamas, but we are anchored in 15' and you can see bottom, of grass and some sand.


La Parguera coastline is all mangrove, so people build homes on pilings over the water, adjacent to land.

Homes on the left along shore, and mangrove island toward sea, with a narrow channel between.


Homes and boats along "shore"

The town is quiet and closed up Monday through Thursday, and comes alive on Friday, Saturday and Sunday afternoons.   We were in at 10:00 on a Saturday, and town was just starting to set up for the day.


Restaurants getting ready for the day


Nativity display in one of the larger hotels entryway


Shops still closed up, but getting ready to open for the crowds.

Christmas tree in the town square


End of town was less scenic, with the large garbage dumpster.  Lots of chickens with small chicks and pigeons taking advantage of the dumpster.



Monument dedicated to the fishing industry of La Parguera

Entrance to fenced housing, done all in tile.


The anchorage was a bit bouncy from boat traffic off and on.  We decided not to wait until Monday for a snorkeling trip, as friends had reported it not that great and last time we were here in 2013 we had searched for good snorkeling, but did not find much, so we moved and anchored in Bahia Fosforrescente, which is a bay that has a natural phosphorescence. The unique part of this bay, is that it allows motorized vessels, anchoring and swimming.   
We were the only boat there anchored, until around 6:30 at night when the sunset, then about a dozen tourist boats came in.   We shut off all lights on our boat, as did all the tourist boats, so people could enjoy the bay.   It takes a bit of a disturbance to see the phosphorescence, so most people jump in and swim around.    We had dolphins swimming buy us, about 100' away, and although we could hear them, and see them when thy broke the surface, they produced no visible phosphorescence.   All the tour boats left by 10:00, and we had a peaceful night.

This morning we got up early, and headed out with sunrise and headed to Cayos de Cana Gorda, otherwise known as Gilligan's island.  It is just named that.  The show not filmed there.   
Will hang out here for a few days, and do some exploring.  The day temps are now in the mid to upper 80s with the lows in low 70s.  Kris is finally warm, most of the time :)





4 comments:

  1. Cool, very different than most of the Bahamas! Just curious, do you have to check back into the US?

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    1. No, we are checked into the USA. We could go directly to mainland USA without checking in. When we go to the USVI's, we will have to check in through the Roam app, as it is in a different customs territory.

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  2. So interesting. When we went to PR we based ourselves in San Juan, and toured the island by car. However, we went to Puerto Mosquito on Isla de Vieques which is supposed to have the best bioluminescence in the world. No motors allowed in the bay. We paddled the dinghy in. Such a disappointment, never mind the numerous tours who had a couple of hundred guests on kayaks. We spent hours in the dark of the moon. Splashing our oars etc and not a bit of bioluminescence. However on our way back to Meshugga at anchor and out of the protected marine park bay, we saw a bit with the props of our motor. Best I ever saw was on our old cat, with pump toilets. Such fun to see the sparkles go down the loo 🤣🤣

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    1. We enjoyed the toilet sparkles as well in the bay. Wish we had turned on our anchor washdown to see if that produced a nice stream of sparkles, but forgot to. Best bioluminescence we have seen is offshore on the Pacific coast. Could see fish darting and wave crests were beautiful.

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