Sunday, May 19, 2024

2024-05-19 Hiking on Terre-de-Haut, and visiting Saint-Francois

We took a great hike with our friends on Wanderlust, Melelana, and met new friends David and Kami off of MakaniKai.  The hike was up to the top of the 1013 ft. hill.   We decided to take the trail up, and the road back down, which is the way to do it.   The trail to scramble up is 4000 ft. long  which make the average angle of the climb about 26%.  The road down is longer, but not as steep.  Keep in mind that the temperature is around 85 degrees, but feels about 10 degrees warmer with the humidity around 70% to 80%.  We drink lots of water, and sweat a lot.

Lots of goats at the start of the trail - not too afraid of us

Starting the hike - yellow dots mark the trail - not too steep yet

Saw this little snake on the way - Terre-de-Haut racer

Clearly marked trail in yellow

Getting to be a bit of a steep climb

The last of the trail was quite steep, using hands a must, more of a crawl than walk

View of the anchorage from the top

At the top, we reached the Watchtower - built in about 1843



Inside the watchtower looking out

View of the main part of town in Terre-de-Haut

Took the road/path on the way down - much easier

A hungry and tired group ready to eat

We did a bit of snorkeling while there, and walked the main town as well.

One of the main streets in Terre-de-haut

Street with view of bay

No trip to town is complete without seeing the chickens

Stone church in Terre-de-haut

Of course the trip to town involved buying a baguette and some apple pastry.

Went for a snorkel, but like a lot of Caribbean, not very impressive.

Much of the bottom looked like this

Not impressive snorkeling

Surfaced near this dock, but the pelican liked the spot, and did not even move when my head popped out.

After a nice time in Terre-de-Haut, we sailed to the  southeast corner of Guadeloupe to the anchorage at Saint Francois.  Able to sail all but the last 2.5 hours of the 10 hour trip.  

Walked the town a bit, had a nice lunch and got provisions.


Anchorage at Saint Francois - shallow and a bit tight

Nice dinghy dock and marina

Typical street view - lots of cars

Mid downtown has a rotunda with lots of vendors selling tourist stuff, but lots of jams, sauces and spices

Spices for sale - lots of flavors, and fun to sample

Stopped at the large Carrefour market for provisions as well

Gelato makes for nice treat at end of hot day

Nice fruit and veg market in town

Delicious lunch - Tres Fromage Panini.  Dean got a nice burger as well.

We left Saint Francois and sailed to Marie Gallant.  There is a blues festival (Kool and the Gang were the head liners) going on this weekend, so the anchorage is quite full.  Could no longer get tickets to the festival - all sold out, so we will find something else to do and see a bit of the island.

Over 100 boats anchored due to the festival, normal probably more like 20.


Sunday, May 12, 2024

2024-05-12 Week in Guadeloupe - Rain, hiking and snorkeling Jaques Cousteau Reserve

We had a good sail down from Antigua to Deshaies, Guadeloupe.  Calmish seas, and good winds.

Really stressful sailing 😀

First order of business is checking in, and we did a quick town walk.

Narrow one way street in Deshaies

Boat harbor 

Fancy pedestrian bridge over the Deshaies river

Stopped at bakery and got a baguette



Main road in Deshaies

Sculpture by an impressive building that housed a library

Church in town rings bells regulary

Inside the church.

Next day was the trip to the Botanical Gardens, which we already posted the photos on in previous blog.   After our day at the botanical gardens, we had not planned to move the next day, and went for a brief snorkel in the morning, which was unimpressive, but nice to get in the water.   We were relaxing on the boat after lunch, when a patrol boat came by and said we had to move, as part of our anchor was on seagrass, and we could only be on sand.   The anchor was in sand, but the chain had moved over some seagrass, as in the anchorage we spun 180 degrees several times.

We decided that if we had to raise anchor, we might as well move the 10 miles to the next anchorage at Pigeon Point, so we motored on down.

Deshaies Harbor anchorage

We were not sad to leave the anchorage, as it had gotten quite rolly, unfortunately the next stop at Pigeon Point, was no better, but it did have a larger grocery, and we really wanted to snorkel the Jacques Cousteau Reserve.

Next morning we dinghied over to the reserve and had a nice snorkel.  Water was 85 degrees, so no wetsuit needed.  We snorkeled the entire island, just short of a mile in distance.   There were lots of fish, but the coral was disappointing.  We are finding that a lot in the Caribbean, due to bleaching, storm damage and ???.  Just not impressive coral.   This time we did have lots of sargassum in the water, so that made it interesting.
Lots of fish under floating sargassum mat

Sponges and fire coral was most of the bottom color





Like swimming in an aquarium at times

The sargassum was firm, and scratchy when swimming through it.





One of the only healthy elkhorn corals we saw



Most of the bottom rock, fire coral, sponges but not much else.   Would have to dive down and get close to seek out small life that is probably present.


Since we were snorkeling, most the bottom was 5' to 20' below us, but in a shallow spot we could get an idea of some of the smaller occupants.


Let me know what kind of fish this is if you know

Need to get a good book on fishies

Saturday we sailed down to Terre-de-Haut in Les Saintes.  Wind on the nose, so tacking was the order of the day.  Had zero to 25 knots, so ended up with a reef most the day, and two reefs for part of the trip.  Good sail.    Today we will hike up a 2900 ft hill and see the view with our friends on Melelana and Wanderlust.

Friday, May 10, 2024

2024-05-10 Visit to Botanical Gardens in Deshaies, Guadeloupe (bonus blog)

Went with our friends on Tracy on Wanderlust, David and Kim on Melelana and Shirley and Alan on Lattitude Adjustment to the Botanical Gardens in Deshaies on Guadeloupe.

After a very sweaty 1 mile walk all uphill to get there, we spent a hour wandering the gardens.  Very nice.  All the signage in French, so mostly wandering and enjoying.

Lots of photos below of botanical garden views.
















kris hearst, dean hearst




















Looking at anchorage from view at Botanical Gardens